BMW E30 Diving Board Bumper Facelift Kit – The High Dive – 1984-1987 Coupe/Sedan

$325.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store mikeygaumann
(231) 100.0%,

Location: San Luis Obispo, California
Ships to: US,
Item: 186549031928

Returns Accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Gaumann&Co:Gaumann&Co
Type:Bumper
Items Included:Mounting Hardware
Manufacturer Part Number:001
Material:Aluminum,Steel
Country/Region of Manufacture:United States
Vintage Part:No
Placement on Vehicle:Rear
Performance Part:No

This listing is for 1984-1987 E30 COUPE / SEDAN ONLY! See my other listing for E30 Convertible kit.Important: 2 options available – Please send me a note when ordering, I can’t ship your kit out until I know. “Keep Side Markers” or “Delete Side Markers” – see pictures for comparison. Please state which style you would like. eBay will not let me add them as options to my listing.The High Dive is a rear diving board facelift kit for early model USA E30’s. It helps you tidy up your rear end by using custom powder coated brackets to relocate the original diving board bumper high and tight to the body and is finished off with lightweight aluminum side panels to eliminate the faded, wavy rubber shrouds altogether. This kit was intentionally designed to echo the factory aesthetic while achieving a more streamlined fit. All hardware is included, installation is simple and you even shave 10lbs off the car in the process. You also have the option to keep or delete the side marker lights.Fits all 1984-1987 Coupe and Sedan model E30’s only – NOT compatible with Convertible models or 1988 diving board cars. See my other listing for Convertible model kit.Each kit is meticulously hand built from scratch in my shop in San Luis Obispo, CA!I cannot offer any painting services. The aluminum trim panels will arrive raw and unpainted, but sanded to 220 grit and degreased/prepped. Disclaimer: this is a cosmetic upgrade. It should be understood that by running this kit, you are replacing the factory bumper shocks with rigid brackets and lose the low speed impact protection that they provide as a result.———————————————Diving board bumpers: some love them, many loathe them. Early model E30’s are timeless, with slim tail lights and higher rear fender arches (among other perks), it’s easy to prefer them over their later model counterpart. The diving board bumpers, however, can be a deal breaker. They are large, unslightly and are wrapped in often wavy, sun-faded rubber trim that looks more like an afterthought than a design element. Common options to address this “issue” are to convert to Euro bumpers (which are rare and very expensive) or retrofit to the later style plastic bumpers (which is labor intensive and also expensive).You know what isn’t rare or expensive though? Diving boards. Good luck giving them away at this point. Every early model E30 that entered the USA between 1984-1987 was equipped with these bumpers, so a solution which utilized this undesirable yet abundant resource was conceptualized and the High Dive was born.———————————————Hardware Included:(2) Aluminum Trim Panels(2) Powder Coated Bumper Brackets(4) M8 flange locknuts for mounting bumper brackets to body (original bumper shock nuts can be used too)(7) Self-tapping screws (only 6 are necessary, one extra is included)(4) M5 x 12mm Button Head Hex Drive bolts with nuts (these are optional in case you want to use them instead of self-tappers on the wheel arch, explained in step 8 below) Paint Prep for Aluminum Trim Panels:The aluminum trim panels can be painted or powder coated to your preferred color and finish. All panels are sanded to 320 grit and degreased prior to shipping so they are prepped for paint, but it’s a good idea to give them one last cleaning with wax & grease remover or similar product before laying down paint. I’ve found that flat or satin black both look good and match the original trim look nicely. Installation instructions:1) Remove all rubber trim surrounding the metal bumper, there are three separate pieces. This requires access to the trunk. If you have carpeted panels lining the insides of the trunk, those must come out to gain access to the nuts holding the trim on. Remove all 8mm nuts and pull the trim off. 2) Remove the metal bumper by loosening the bumper shocks. Each bumper shock has one 13mm bolt and two 13mm nuts . All are accessed from under the car except for one inside the trunk near the battery. One bolt is hidden under the exhaust shield which can be tricky to find. Once these are removed, the bumper should pull straight out and off the car. 3) The bumper shocks are attached to the metal bumper by a bracket. Remove the two 13mm nuts to separate them. You will see the bumper shock is attached to the bracket via a large 19mm bolt and nut. 4) Loosen the 19mm nut to separate the bumper shock from the bracket. Install the bracket onto the new High Dive bumper mount using the existing 19mm nut and bolt. 5) Reinstall the bumper mount and bracket onto the metal bumper in it’s original location and bolt the bumper back up to the car. 6) Now it’s time to install the aluminum trim panels. Each panel has three holes and a locating tab. 7) Test fit the aluminum trim panel, the locating tab can be bent and manipulated in such a way to hold it tight to the bumper (this is to avoid having visible hardware on top). *CAUTION* – The next steps require the installation of self-tapping screws. DO NOT install these with an impact driver. Over-tightening can cause the screw head to sheer off. Use a drill driver so you have better control over the tightening process. 8) Hold the aluminum trim panel tight to the wheel well lip and line it up until you are happy with the fitment. You want the bumper gap to look consistent from the bumper up to the wheel arch. Install two self-tapping screws into the wheel well lip. Alternatively, in case you don’t want to use self-tappers here, you can use the supplied set of 4 optional buttonhead bolts with nuts by drilling a 3/16” hole and installing that way. 9) Hold the aluminum trim panel tight to the bumper and carefully install a self-tapping screw from underneath up into the metal bumper. A self-tapper is necessary here, so be careful not to over-tighten. 10) You’re done!

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